September 11, 2025
Zenith has just released the Defy Chronograph USM collection, a series of four limited-edition watches born from a collaboration with furniture designer USM. Priced at a significant $11,800 USD, these timepieces pair the iconic 1969 octagonal Defy case with the legendary El Primero chronograph movement for the very first time. The central question for any savvy buyer is straightforward: does this unique, retro-inspired package deliver true value for its premium price tag?
The Verdict: Pros & Cons
When evaluating a watch at this price, a clear-eyed assessment is crucial.
- Pros: The biggest strength is its unique identity. You get the revered El Primero high-beat movement in a historically significant and visually striking 37mm case. The build quality is excellent, featuring a modernized solid-link “ladder” bracelet, sapphire crystals, and a display caseback. The vibrant USM dial colors offer a bold aesthetic you won’t find elsewhere.
- Cons: The $11,800 price places it directly against Zenith’s own Chronomaster Sport, a modern crowd-pleaser. Water resistance is only 100 meters, a notable step down from the 300 meters on time-only Defy Revival models. Finally, with only 60 pieces per color, its extreme scarcity makes it more of a collector’s hunt than a practical purchase.
Positioning in the Market
The Defy Chronograph USM doesn’t compete on specs alone. While a Chronomaster Sport offers a more contemporary design and ceramic bezel for similar money, this watch sells a different story. It’s a “what if” creation, blending two 1969 icons—the Defy case and the El Primero movement—that never originally met. This historical fusion, combined with the USM design partnership, carves out a niche for collectors who prioritize design heritage and exclusivity over mainstream appeal. It’s less of an all-around sports watch and more of a wearable piece of design history.
Final Recommendation
So, who is this watch for? It is not for the first-time luxury watch buyer or someone seeking the best all-purpose chronograph. The Zenith Defy Chronograph USM is tailor-made for the seasoned Zenith collector and the design aficionado. If you already own a Chronomaster, love the specific aesthetic of the 1969 Defy, and value the exclusivity of a 240-piece total production run, then this watch offers a compelling and unique proposition. For most others, the price and practical limitations will be hard to justify.
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