March 19th 2025
The Traditional Approach to Watch Collecting
Watch collectors often adhere to a set of unwritten rules about what a “serious” collection should include. A well-rounded collection is typically expected to feature a diver, a GMT, a dress watch, and a timepiece with complications, ideally representing various brands and eras. Additionally, current trends dictate smaller watches, often incorporating precious metals. These conventions shape many collecting decisions, as enthusiasts strive to align with prevailing wisdom.
Challenging the Norms
However, deviating from these guidelines can be both liberating and rewarding. The 1973 Zenith El Primero reference 01.0200.415 “Big Blue” exemplifies a shift away from traditional collecting patterns. Instead of acquiring a piece that fits a missing category within a collection, this watch represents a doubling down on vintage sports chronographs from the 1960s and 1970s. This approach challenges the notion that a collection must be broad and diversified to be valuable or fulfilling.
The Zenith El Primero “Big Blue”: A Bold Statement
The Zenith El Primero “Big Blue” is one of the most striking yet underappreciated designs of Zenith’s original automatic chronograph series. Released in 1973 as part of the second wave of El Primero designs, it was among the last mechanical models produced before Zenith ceased production in 1975.
Its 42mm stainless steel case is robust and futuristic, featuring a rocker-style chronograph pusher that enhances its space-age aesthetic. The case shape, with its rounded-square “TV” dial, is a departure from more conventional chronograph designs of the era. Despite its size, the watch maintains a balanced wrist presence, aided by a 44.2mm lug-to-lug measurement and a 14.3mm thickness.
A Dial That Defines an Era
The dial of the “Big Blue” is a perfect representation of 1970s watchmaking. The vertically brushed texture shifts from deep navy to bright cerulean depending on the light, offering a level of visual interest uncommon in its time. The applied indices, tachymeter ring, and silver chronograph scales add depth and refinement. One of the standout features is the 4:30 date window, which seamlessly integrates into the design with a trapezoidal shape and a dial-matching blue date wheel—an uncommon feature for the period.
The El Primero Movement: A Watchmaking Legend
Inside, the El Primero 3019 PHC movement stands as one of the most significant advancements in watch history. As one of the first automatic chronographs, it remains renowned for its high-frequency 36,000 bph beat rate, providing an ultra-smooth sweep. This movement has not only powered Zenith’s iconic pieces but has also been used in legendary references from Movado, Ebel, and even Rolex.
A Controversial Yet Iconic Bracelet
The integrated stainless steel bracelet of the “Big Blue” is a bold design choice. Its sharply faceted links and dramatic taper—from 31mm at the case to 16mm at the clasp—give it a distinctive presence. Early models featured a Châtelain-made bracelet, while later versions were equipped with an NSA-produced H-link bracelet. Both variations contribute to the watch’s unique character, though opinions on the design remain divided.
The Joy of Collecting Without Boundaries
Watch collecting should ultimately be about enjoyment rather than adherence to rigid guidelines. The Zenith El Primero “Big Blue” serves as a testament to the value of collecting based on personal taste rather than external expectations. Embracing the joy of acquiring pieces that resonate on an individual level, rather than conforming to industry trends, can reignite the passion for horology.